Surfing Background

The history of surfing has been evolving for centuries but since the 1960's it exploded on a global scale and now boosts a multi million pound industry. Unlike other mainstream sports, surfing carves its own vibe where you can become immersed in a unique trend of lifestyle and surfing cultures. Once you’ve got the basics you can easily get hooked and begin your endless search for better conditions and more perfect surfing waves.

Types of surfboard

When it comes to boards there are loads to choose from, the most popular being the short, long and body board. Stick to what you prefer as when other surfers mock you should recall 'its not what you ride, but how you ride it'!

The Shortboard
Generally between 6 and 8ft in length with 3 to 6 fins, short boarding is quicker and more manoeuvrable compared to other types of surfing. Its lack of floatation makes it harder to catch waves, and suits surf with more power to supply speed and drive. Big wave surfing requires a longer style of shortboard to allow the surfer to paddle faster and catch waves earlier.

The Longboard
Between 8 and 14ft in length with a round curved nose, Longboards will float and catch waves easily and earlier than most other boards. Good riders shift their weight to gather speed and display style and hang 5 or 10 toes over the front edge of the board giving the impression of walking on water.

The Bodyboard
A small board with a stiff but flexible core designed for prone riding while wearing fins on your feet. Although great for beginners and gaining wave knowledge, experienced spongers will take off on huge heavy waves busting big aerials and a variety of other complex manoeuvres.

Getting Started at Surfing

If you expect to paddle out and rip on your fist day, you will be seriously humbled and more than likely to look a fool! It is important to take note of a few important things before you venture out beyond the shorebreak.

Surfing Equipment

Buy or rent equipment from your local surf shop. Most will have starter packages available including a board, leash and a wetsuit and give you a good deal. They will also be able to advise you on the best spots in the area and what conditions they work best. Naked surfing is an option if your short on cash but could get a little chilly!

Where to go Surfing

Don’t just paddle out where there is a crowd, try and find a spot further down the beach where you can practice and learn without getting in the way of others. Remember surfers don’t like kooks making the water crowded and unsafe.

Surfing Code of Conduct

Once you've got the basics and begin to surf with others, it's important to recognise there are rules in the water and understand who might have right of way. Some of the golden rules are described below.

Don't drop in – in English this means don't catch a wave that someone else is already riding on. The golden rule is, the surfer closest to the breaking part of the wave always has priority.

• No snaking – surfers who snake are the people that constantly paddle around other surfers and move on the inside to nick waves from the surfers who are waiting for waves on the outside.
• Don't paddle through the lineup because it is very dangerous. Always paddle on the outside of the break to keep out of the way of incoming surfers.
• Respect locals and experienced surfers don't paddle out somewhere new and try boss the lineup.
• Be safe in the water if its crowded be prepared to pull off a wave if you’re going to risk hitting someone.
• Wear a leash and don’t kick your board out.

When to go Surfing

Listen and watch weather forecasts, go online, or even get interactive. There are many ways to find out when the surf is going off near you, but it always helps to know a little about how it all works. So here’s a little science;

Swell is generated far out to sea by strong winds in low pressure systems tracking across the ocean. These radiate swell in a similar direction as kinetic energy and can travel for hundreds of miles unnoticed before reaching the shoreline. As it draws closer and shallower the energy will rise up and finally topple over itself creating a breaking wave. The type of wave will depend upon the surface of the sea bed, as a flat sandy bottom can create slow, fat waves, where ledges and reefs can provide hollow and powerful pits. The top 3 things to look for when forecasting are;

• Good wave period. The further away the low the more spaced out and organise the swell will be.
• Swell Height. The strength of the winds inside the low pressure system will determine the size of the swell generated. Size isn’t always everything!
• Local conditions. No matter how big or how good the wave period, if it is onshore winds when the swell hits the beach or it’s the wrong tide, it may prove to be a disappointment.

Surfing Organisations & Associations

Notsheep Recommendations

We recommend the following:

• World & European Stormrider Guide - A surfers location bible! A must when planning trips abroad.
• Endless Summer I & II – A masterpiece and a must see for every surfer.
• Surfing Music - Get some good tunes and get amped before and after a good session.
• An employer who is none the wiser when you pull a sickie when its pumping
• Take surfing pictures. and video to improve faster and to laugh at your mates with that poo man stance.
• Carve, 360, wavelength – Quartery mags with good a read.
• Big Wednesday – Its always good to see how they used to do it. A classic film
• A good attitude towards others.
• Treat and respect local surfers
• Go surf and come interact with us later, now bleat it!